Thursday, January 20, 2011

Ice Cream Truck

I really like food. If all I had in the world was books and food I would be pretty happy, all things considered. Since we haven't really started classes yet I'm teaching myself to eat because clearly no Americans really know how to. Last night we went out in search of a taverna to watch the Roma v Lazio game and ended up at a resturant a few blocks from out apartment.  We arrived around nine and didn't leave until midnight. It was perfect, we were the only english speakers in the place and though our three days of Italian classes made communication interesting it was amazing. We were one of the last groups to leave, it is what I think quintessential Roman dinners are like, course after course and the best white wine I have ever had. It was perfect. Delicious and perfect.

I think I've eaten pizza and gelato every day and at least one espresso or cappuccino, usually two.  It's amazing. This place is so hard in so many ways but the world stops whenever you enter  tiny family owned bar and order a caffe. We had a few places we visit nearly everyday and the owners know us and joke with us whenever we come in. Minnesota nice is put to shame here. I struggle to order with correct pronunciation as often as I can and I'm only met with smiles and encouraging eyes.

Yesterday was the first of the programs core course "At Home in Rome: Modern Life in the Eternal City". It's going to be brillant. We spend the classes on site most of the time, visiting different neighborhoods and learning history, culture, everything that makes Rome tick. Our professor is especially interested in the Roma and she's a sociology phD and is really cool.  We went to the old slaughterhouse which is part Kurdish Refugee camp and part an area sort of like Eastern Market in DC.  It's covered with graffiti and parts of it are run down and the other half is brand new.  Gentrification and all that, so the class is quite politically charged.  Being me, I just stay out of it and focus instead on visiting the protestant graveyard whre Shelly and Keates are buried!

My professor knew Im a Literature major so when we arrived at the cemetery she took me right to Shelly's grave.

Some background information about me and Percy.  I once wrote a paper for Dr. Kay on his song "The Indian Girl's Song" or "The Indian Serenade" depending on what edition you are reading.  It's beautiful. Sad and tragic and beautiful.

So my professor and I are standing there, I'm on the brink of tears with this brand new professor and I just had this near spiritual moment where I was overwhelmed with emotion and it hit me - I'm living in Rome.

And then I recited the first stanza and my professor just looked at me and slowly backed away.  Not really, but it was REALLY nerdy.  And then I found a euro coin with Dante on it and I freaked out again and it was amazing.

Roma won last night.  Yay Totti.

Here's the poem:

"I arise from dreams of thee
In the first sweet sleep of night,

When the winds are breathing low,

And the stars are shining bright.

I arise from dreams of thee,

And a spirit in my feet

Hath led me -- who knows how?

To thy chamber window, Sweet!

 

The wandering airs they faint

On the dark, the silent stream--

And the Champak's odours fail

Like sweet thoughts in a dream;

The nightingale's complaint,

It dies upon her heart,

As I must on thine,

O belovèd as thou art!

 

O lift me from the grass!

I die! I faint! I fail!

Let thy love in kisses rain

On my lips and eyelids pale.

My cheek is cold and white, alas!

My heart beats loud and fast:

O press it to thine own again,

Where it will break at last!"

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